BASIC KNOWLEDGE T-SHIRT (針織襯衫基本知識)
如果知識對于沒有學過服裝基礎知識的同學會比較陌生些,可以找出自己平時的一件POLO衫來對應學習就比較好理解些。
1.COLLAR 衣領
(1)Fabric 布:
A . Flat Knit 針纖扁機
B . Rib 1x1針織Ix1羅紋
C . Self Fabric ( Jersey , Interfock ,.…)原身布(平紋布,雙面布.…)
D . Woven Fabric 梳織布
(2)Style & Make 款及制造:
A . One Piece (1. top & botom same Piece ,2. top only )
A .一片領(1.領面及底同是一片布,2.隻是領面)
B . Two Pieces (1. separate top & botom ,2. Two pcs . at top )
B .兩片領(1.分開面布底布各自一片布,2.領面是分開上下)
C . Collar & Colarband 領上級及領下級
D . Collar shape : Crew - neck , V - neck , Turtle - neck , Mock - neck , etc .
D .領形:圓領, V 領圓高領(高反領,假反領,等等
2.BACK NECK TAPE 後領捆:
(1)Fabric 布:
A . Jersey Tape ( Tubular )豬腸帶(圓簡形)
B . Rib 1x1 針織1x1羅紋
C . Self Fabric ( Jersey , Interlock ,.)原身布(紋布,雙面布.…)
D . Woven Fabric 梳織布
E . Herringbone ( woven )人字帶(梳織)
F . NO 沒有(不用後領捆)
(2)Make制造
A . Two top stitch at innner neckseam , one top stitch at outer neckseam
A .後内領窩骨(頸縫骨)車雙線,後外領窩骨(頸縫骨)車單線
B . Double top stitch at inner / outer neckseam
B .内外後領窩骨(頸縫骨)車雙線
C . Overlocked raw edge ( for colar without back neck tape -" F ")
C .領腳(散口)級骨鎖邊(因為不做後領捆,即以上" F "項)
3.FRONT PLACKET 前筒
(1)Fabric 布:
A . SelfFabric ( Jersey , Interlock ,.)原身布(平紋布,雙面布,.…)
B . Flat Knit 針織扁機
C . Herringbone ( woven )人字帶(梳織)
D . Woven Fabric 梳織布
E . Diferent ( knit / woven ) Fabric : top / facing , under placket ( top / botom )
E .不同類(針/梳織)布:如面筒和筒貼,或底筒(底面布不同)
(2)Style & Make 款及制造:
A . Patched Placket ( Polo :" Classic ")明筒貼在上面如 Polo 款 Classic
B . Tum back self fabric placket with top stitches at righleft sideS Polo :" finished english placket "暗筒左右兩邊間線如 Polo 款
C . Turn back self fabric placket with edge stitch only , Polo :" unfinished english placke !”
暗筒筒邊間邊線如 Polo " unfinished ."款
(3)Top Stitch Width面間線寬 : 1/16" edge 1/8" 1/4” 3/8'' 5/8'' 3/4''
common use 常用寬度: 0.0625 0.125 0.25 0.375 0.625 0.75
Ref :3/16"=0.1875, 5/16''=0.3125, 7/16"=0.4375,1/2"=0.5, 9/16"=0.5625,7/8"=0.875。
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